Living Inside an Opera House
- Yan
- Aug 20, 2023
- 3 min read
Updated: Sep 23, 2023
A guerrilla theatrical troupe appeared. Within an hour, the sleeping 18th century fort came alive; instantly resurrecting the forbidden Likay opera house commune.
Bohemian artists, scholars, amateur scientists, backpackers, hackers, geniuses and jokers of all types showed up as nightfall. Young children of the commune gave flowers – and cash -- to the opera troupe as they improvised and argued. This could be their last socio-political comedy.
In 2016, a community of people living inside an old fort organized an open-air "Likay" theater.
The Likay opera has its roots in the Persian culture where the play has an improvised form that makes fun of those in power. It was imported into Thailand through trading ports and is now firmly rooted in local folk culture. It has a highly argumentative structure of debate and improvised lyrics based on current events. The current Mahakan Fort itself used to be the site of 19th century Likay theater with a large bazaar organized around the boat piers nearby.
The entrance door says “No trespassing. The commune is facing immediate eviction.”
The current inhabitants are “not directly related to the original 18th century inhabitants”, says the city officials. “They are not historical.”
The Military-appointed Bangkok government in 2016 found the inhabitants' rebellious spirits troublesome; they vowed to evict them at all cost to set an example for those who wish to disobey orders.
Since 1992, the Bangkok government issued an eminent domain to take over their land to create a master plan for a Royalist architectural beautification for inner Bangkok. Folk architecture, especially Likay Opera, is not part of the plan.
"The Likay theater has to start at dusk." The head of the Likay Troupe welcomed everyone and told us that Likay is imported from Persia and typically started with a musical overture before the dialogue begins.
In the old days, many taboo subjects could be presented in the context of a Likay theater. This can include things like sex (such as putting flowers "in the ear", etc.) or making fun of the current ruler using symbolic language. The play will use the usual folk stories such as Phra Rod Sen or Mae Nak Phra Khanong as a template, but will be sung live with improvised symbolism that only the audience with proper training can discern.
In tonight's play, the matriarch told her advisor to try to find ways to murder Phra Rod Sen. "Perhaps he should be put to death", she whispered, by the method of "bloodstream infection" (those who speak out against the present day Monarchy or the military Junta were often found dead in prison this way).
"The tradition of arguments and debate is not one that the current rulers want to keep", a thin man shrugged.
He has been the community leader for over 20 years in the struggle to keep this opera commune from being evicted.
"Under the current the socio-economic system, big oligarchs simply imported new products from abroad, take control of the distribution channels and sell, sell and sell. There is no need for thinking and innovation here. If someone came up with a new idea, it will quickly be copied by the large monopolistic companies."
The community behind Mahakarn Fort were the Royal guards and craftsmen who had settled around the palace some 200 years ago. As a community, the fort has been here since the 18th century; the residents help maintained the royal fort and largely kept its condition intact.
Photo Credit: Nattaphon Phanphongsanon
Built in 1783 during King Rama 1, it was one of 14 historic forts that survived to this day. Situated next to the famous Kaosan road - the backpackers' heaven - the Mahakarn Fort is known for its weekend market, festivals, handicraft, and spicy food. During the weekdays, a large sprawling bazaar could be seen around it; the bazaar grew around a nearby canal dock for the San Saeb commuter boats. Every Sunday, there's a large bazaar that sells everything from bird cages to Pad Thai noodle.
Debating events were organized right before the show about the value of debate itself; for some strange reasons, the folk culture seems to embrace it more than the ruling elites.
Unfortunately, shortly after that day, The opera house commune and all the wooden houses in the fort were completely demolished, turning into a clear, clean lawn devoid of people and ideas.
"People are not considered assets here in Thailand," says the thin man. He bowed down to the ground in a gesture of resignation after the Bangkok government sent in guards to demolish all houses and the theater in the commune.
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